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Monday 22 April 2013

Muros de Melgaço Alvarinho 2011

17 / 20
Producer: Anselmo Mendes Vinhos
Region:Minho
Country:Portugal


Very subtle bouquet, with a strong mineral side, along with some lovely flowery impressions and a drop of an herbaceous, more vegetable note. In the nose, the overall feel is one of austerity and balance.


Impressive in the mouth, feeling very soft at first but quickly building up to a full, long and persistent wine. It's fresh but the acidity is very controlled, there are some more fruit notes than in the nose, but the main drive is the mineral, wet stones side. The oak has been masterfully used here, almost not apparent in the bouquet or in the flavors but giving a great deal of complexity to the wine.


Really good Alvarinho and a great buy at under 20€.


Thursday 18 April 2013

Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2009

16 / 20
Producer: Gnarly Head
Region:California
Country: USA




A californian Chardonnay showing a subtle, discreet bouquet where boiled apples and pears mingle with some honeyed notes and a subtle touch of oak.


Shows its weight on the palate, feeling unctuous but this is very well supported by a nice acidity and a orange-skin bitterness that is refreshing. It's a pleasant, not very complex white, very balanced (the 14% alcohol are not noticeable) that ends very pleasantly.


Sunday 14 April 2013

Casa Burmester Touriga Nacional 2009

16.5 / 20
Producer: Burmester
Region:Douro
Country:Portugal


A really good example of what Touriga Nacional can offer, the bouquet here is very intense, filled with flowery, violet notes along with a strong presence of sweet raspberries. Overall, the nose exposes a very young, powerful wine.


The same impression is conveyed by the palate. Structured and mouth-fiIIing, the flavors gravitate between the same flowery impressions as in the nose joined by a more caramel, sweeter side. A very good acidity helps to keep the taste from becoming too intense. Strong powerful finish that makes the wine linger for a long time in the mouth.


I'd wait a couple more years for this one. It still needs to tame down a bit and I'm curious as to how it will evolve.


Tuesday 9 April 2013

Amalaya 2010

16.5 / 20
Producer: Bodegas Amalaya
Region:Salta
Country:Argentina


A blend of Malbec - what else? - Syrah , Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat, this argentinian red has an inviting, intense bouquet - very fruit-forward with notes of vanilla and a subtle spice background. Although it starts off very Malbec like, I think the Syrah eventually finds its way to the foreground, with some very nice notes of blackberries.

Very open, round and inviting in the palate, silky, smooth tannins leveraging the intensity of the fruit and vanilla notes. Controlled acidity, good structure and decent finish, this is a very well made wine that is ready to be enjoyed.

Specially enjoyed those blackberries both in the nose and in the palate - the Syrah / Malbec blend came along very well.


Sunday 7 April 2013

Luís Pato Vinha Formal 2008

17 / 20
Producer: Luís Pato
Region:Bairrada
Country:Portugal


100% Bical and staged 9 months in oak, this older white - 5 years - is a reminder that the Bairrada is a prime terroir for whites in Portugal.

The nose expresses the wine's age, with dried fruits appearing, along with a glyceric note. But given time, some sweet white fruit also appears and gives it some grace.

In the palate, the wine is a revelation. Although you can definitely tell it's an older white - although the evolution here is very positive - it comes along as imposing. Very structured and deep, austere and precise, the heavier glyceric notes are matched by an impressive dryness. The set results in a remarkable wine that will probably take on some more cellaring.


Friday 5 April 2013

Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas 2011

17 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Soalheiro
Region:Minho
Country:Portugal


From one of the best - to my view - Alvarinho producers in Minho (and Portugal), this wine is made from the oldest vines in their farm and is a close match to their Reserva - maybe just lacks some of the aging potential the Reserva has, but still great value for the price.

Orange blossom and a slight tropical feel in the nose, complemented by a strong mineral background and some vegetable bitterness - extremely elegant and inviting.

Nicely structured in the palate, intense and long, it shows a very good acidity, with gentle tropical notes mingled with stronger citrus and mineral notes. Finishes very long with the citrus notes to the foreground. Really good balance between structure and freshness results in a very rewarding wine.


Monday 1 April 2013

Quinta do Javali Special Reserve

15.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Javali
Region:Porto
Country:Portugal


This is probably a reserve ruby, although that's not explicit from the label or the info on their site. Very fruit forward on the nose, lots of red sweet morello cherries along with some plums and raisins impressions.


Keeps the same approach in the mouth, revealing itself as a young, lightly structured wine. Pleasant enough, I just felt the spirit was a bit too harsh, the alcohol a little too much in the foreground. But this is probably the profile for their ports, as I felt the same thing with their 10-year old tawny.


For that reason, serve it lightly chilled and it be a good apetizer.


Saturday 30 March 2013

Quinta da Foz 2007

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta da Foz
Region:Douro
Country:Portugal




Intense nose on this red from the Douro, showing some dried plums, a balsamic feel that hints at some evolution and distinct oak/vanilla notes. Later on, some ripe red fruits also join the bouquet.


In the palate, starts by showing a medium structure, controlled acidity with some toast/oak but it gains momentum as it breathes. Fine, velvety but very structured tannins start to emerge giving the wine a lot more structure and depth. Flavors remain focused on the balsamic, oakier side leaving the ripe red fruits more to the background.


Thursday 28 March 2013

Pedra Cancela Selecção do Enólogo 2010

16.5 / 20
Producer: Pedra Cancela
Region:Dão
Country:Portugal


A blend from the Dão, this comes across as a modern look at a very classical blend. I don't think I'd ever tasted a wine from this producer, but I'll definitely try to check them out.

Very appealing in the nose, with a marked flowery side, mixed with some pine-tree, earthy notes and a healthy amount of wild berries underneath.

Very elegant in the palate, very well balanced with notes of buckroses to the foreground. Very lively wine, with fine but present tannins and the usual - for the Dão - fresh acidity. Ends very long and strong leaving traces of wlid berries in the tongue.


Sunday 24 March 2013

Casa da Passarella Vinhas Velhas 2008

16 / 20
Producer: Casa da Passarella
Region:Dão
Country:Portugal



Ripe red berries on the nose, along with the usual buckroses and some notes of resin, this traditional blend from old vines in the Dão is a very elegant and worthwhile wine.


Elegant and soft in the palate, with a good, fresh acidity, reminiscent of cherries, this has a really nice structure, helped along by hard tannins, still very present but letting the fruit and flowery notes come forward and rule the taste. As it breathes, it starts becoming more intense, strenghtening the flowery side that persists all the way to the long, persistent ending.


Thursday 21 March 2013

António Saramago Reserva 2009

16.5 / 20
Producer: António Saramago
Region:Setúbal
Country:Portugal


Very nice and balanced nose, with the usual jammy black fruit note associated with Castelão in Setúbal, that are seasoned here with light balsamic tones, a hint of spices and an oaky background.

Very elegant and alive in the palate, with lively tannins, fresh acidity and some really nice jammy fruit notes. It's a wine with the right intensity, just enough to show off its flavors, but never overpowering - really gastronomical.

The site says the wine is a blend of Castelão, Touruga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet, but I'd totally believe if I was told this is a 100% Castelão. The jammy blackberries that appear on both nose and mouth are a great expression of the Setúbal Castelão.


Tuesday 19 March 2013

Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2011

16.5 / 20
Producer: Framingham
Region: Marlborough
Country: New Zealand



As usual for the whites from this brand, a lovely, precise New Zealand white.


Very expressive in the nose, showing passion fruit and pineapples without excesses. Very focused, very pure fruit notes that are combined with the greener, more vegetable feel - aspargus and green grass.


The vegetable side seems to take more proeminence in the palate, giving the wine a pleasurable bitterness that goes very well with the tropical fruit background. Intense, with a very good acidity, finishes long and pleasurable.


Friday 15 March 2013

Quinta do Corujão Reserva 2008

15 / 20
Producer:Quinta do Corujão
Region: Dão
Country: Portugal



Interesting nose in this Dão blend, with cocoa and coffee notes, along with jammy blackberries and a slight vegetable/flowery scent.


Less interesting in the palate, coming along as somewhat difuse. The usual fresh acidity from the Dão is here, along with a balanced and elegant feel, but the flavors of the wine seem to be hidden, somewhere in the background.


Wednesday 13 March 2013

Messias Colheita 1977

17.5 / 20
Producer: Messias
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal


The first colheita I tasted from Messias, this 1977 was bottled in 2007 and is showing very well at the moment, the spirits here already tamed and integrated into the whole wine.


Really interesting, complex nose where dried fruits mingle with some exotic woods in a sweet, honeyed background.


Smooth and layered in the palate, honey and caramel, rasins and dried plums, the spirits give it some acidity and freshness. Delicate, smooth caramel notes come up as well in a smooth, elegant and velvety body. Great, long finish. Amazing value for the price.


Monday 11 March 2013

Riesling Vogelthen 2011

16 / 20
Producer: Soellner
Region:Wagram
Country:Austria




A dry riesling from Austria, this white shows some subtle tropical fruit notes in the nose, along with delicate mineral notes.


In the mouth, these impressions are inverted, with the mineral side of the wine coming more to the foreground, along with a marked citrus, lemony side. Feels very elegant and lively, helped by a slightly bubbly feel.


Friday 8 March 2013

Quinta do Escairo Reserva 2010

16 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Escairo
Region: Trás-os-Montes
Country: Portugal


Another wine from the nearly forgotten wine region Trás-os-Montes in Portugal, this is a very pleasant and well made wine, showing some acid red berries in the nose along with some nice cocoa and coffee overtones.

Feels very elegant in the palate, with a really nice balance between red fruits and oak, round yet lively tannins and a fresh, crisp acidity that does not get in the way of enjoyment.

Lightly structured but showing up really well in the palate, the ending is very persistent. Although it won't probably age that well, it's a very enjoyable wine right now.


Tuesday 5 March 2013

José de Sousa Mayor 2008

17 / 20
Producer: José Maria da Fonseca
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal


A blend containing 65% of Grand Noir (a bit unusual) from Reguengos de Monsaraz, this is a really good Alentejo red from one of the biggest wine making companies in Portugal. Jammy red and black fruits on the nose, with some oak and vanilla notes. There's also a scent of raisins and dried plums, hinting at a very gracious and poised evolution.


Beautifully balanced in the palate, still showing a lot of youth with a good deal of acidity and some tense, lively tannins. Wild red berries dominate the palate, elegantly mixed with toast notes. Takes a while to open up, but after 20 minutes or so in the glass, it reveals its full breadth, textured and complex.


Really good Alentejo.


Sunday 3 March 2013

Adega de Pegões Colheita Seleccionada 2011

15.5 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal

Certainly one of the best valued whites in Portugal, this oak-staged white from near Setúbal has been very consistent in its quality, although I was a bit disappointed with one of the last vintages, since the sweet fruit notes seemed a bit too much.

This vintage showed a better balance, although sweet fruit notes predominate in the nose, along with the slightest impression of oak/toast.

Very pleasant in the palate, full bodied and showing the oak where it staged, sweet fruit notes are also very present, but are balanced by a bitter, lemony aftertaste that keeps the sweetness in check. Strikes a very good balance between this bitterness and the heavier side provided by the oak, it finishes long and persistent.

Still a good bet and one to track down whenever you're in the mood for an affordable, interesting wintery white wine.


Friday 1 March 2013

Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay-Pinot Noir 2010

16 / 20
Producer: Boschendal
Region: Boschendal
Country:South Africa



An interesting blend for a still white, the first impressions on this South African white instantly take us into Champagne territory, with a lot of toast notes combined with some boiled apples and pears. Also present is an interesting mineral side and some spices impressions which gives it an edge.


Good, enticing palate that combines a good, elegant and fresh acidity with an heavier structure resulting in a very interesting and original white. It's probably worth cellaring for a couple of years as well.


Monday 25 February 2013

Aneto Pinot Noir 2010

16 / 20
Producer: Aneto
Region: Douro
Country:Portugal


The nose on this Pinot from the Douro is somewhat unexpected, showing some sweeter and more intense cherries than you'd expect from a Pinot. There's also a slighty peppery, greenish feel and a touch of cellar that goes away with time. More to the background are some vanilla and coffee/cocoa notes.


More restrained in the palate, combining a seemingly slim and delicate struture with a good, marked persistence, it shows red fruit notes (again, maybe a bit sweeter than expected) and some nice cocoa, toast notes that are more present in the average length but imposing finale. Smooth, round tannins make it alreay enjoyable.


Saturday 23 February 2013

Dom Manuel I 2010

14.5 / 20
Producer: Adega Cooperativa de Pinhel
Region: Beira Interior
Country: Portugal


Fruit forward and exuberant in the nose, feeling very young and showing some subtle oak notes.

Those same oak, vanilla notes are present in the palate, where it shows a light structure that, combined with a marked acidity, results in a fresh, young wine with some wild red berries notes.

It comes along as a relatively well made wine, showing the high acidity typical of the region and some greenish, a bit wild tannins that are also typical in the wines from the Beira Interior.


Thursday 21 February 2013

J.P.Chenet Cabernet-Syrah 2011

15.5 / 20
Producer: J.P. Chenet
Region:Pays d'Oc
Country:France

Starting out with some notes of green bellpeppers, this later morphs into a very fruit-forward wine, with lots of jammy blackberries appearing in the nose, alongside with some spices.

Very inviting in the palate, a soft, round body with a balanced acidity and soft tannins, the jammy fruit notes are also in the foreground, side by side with a distinct vegetable feel. Correct, medium-length finale.

A very straight-forward, young and slightly sweet wine. Not one to keep for a long time, but pretty enjoyable in its simplicity and youth.


Tuesday 19 February 2013

Quinta de Arcossó Reserva 2007

16 / 20
Producer: Quinta de Arcossó
Region: Trás-os-Montes
Country: Portugal

The wines from the northmost region in Portugal are relatively unknown, even in Portugal. I can think of one brand coming from there - Valle Pradinhos, although there are some more and I distinctly remember having a really interesting Reserva from one of the Adegas up there a couple of years ago.

This farm is a new enterprise (they started in 2005) and their wines are made by Francisco Montenegro, very well known in the Douro - his Aneto brand is one to check. This particular wine is their reserva (apologies for the back label but for some weird reason the shop where I bought this had not received the front labels yet). The nose is very alive and vibrant, with lots of red wild berries along with toast and coffee. There's no hint of evolution here.

The same youth and vibrancy can be sensed in the mouth, with the wine showing a fresh, vibrant acidity - usual in these regions - in a relatively light weighted body. I was actually expecting greener, spikier tannins but the five years seem to have done their work, taming those tannins down to a round, well behaved and appealing version.

On the whole, I'd say I was expecting a bit more focus in the palate, maybe some more fruit notes, which are in the background here. But it's an interesting wine from an offbeat region, nevertheless.


Thursday 7 February 2013

Saurus Barrel Fermented Malbec 2008

15.5 / 20
Producer: Bodega Familia Schroeder
Region: Patagonia
Country: Argentina

I had some good expectations about this, since the other wines I've tasted from this producer from Patagonia had been very enjoyable - I really liked their Select Malbec, for instance.

This particular brand of wines is fermented in the oak barrels (as opposed to aging there after fermentation). I think the goal is to produce a more elegant, constrained Malbec, but overall I felt a little disappointed with it.

The nose felt subdued, hidden, hints of sweet red fruit noticeable in the background, uderneath some unfocused toast notes.

Average structure in the mouth, a good deal of acidity but the flavors also feel hidden, without much expression. The tannins here are still very much to the foreground, maybe overshadowing the rest of the taste. Time gives it more grace in the palate, giving it some more presence, backed by juicy, red fruits.


Could probably benefit from some cellaring or a longer decantation.


Sunday 3 February 2013

Herdade do Esporão Syrah 2008

17 / 20
Producer: Herdade do Esporão
Region:Alentejo
Country:Portugal

Part of this year's reconciliation with Syrahs from Alentejo, supported by a great 2-week vacation there, this varietal from the Herdade do Esporão (great wine tourism spot and a lovey restaurant by the way) is a great example of what this grape type can offer in the Alentejo.

Strongly scented, intense and concentrated blackberries predominate in the nose, with oakier notes, some smoke and a hint of tobacco leaves.

Follows suit in the palate, showing a strong, full body where intense black fruit is balanced by an excelent acidity. The round and velvety tannins add complexity and layers to the wine's structure and presence, resulting in a very fulfilling, delightful taste that ends long and persistent - albeit the alcohol feel is maybe a bit too strong.

It's still a very young and powerful wine, so you can definitely wait for it a couple more years. If not, match with strongly flavored foods - went great with a pot-roast pheasant with apples.


Sunday 27 January 2013

Tapada de Coelheiros Chardonnay 2009

16.5 / 20
Producer: Herdade de Coelheiros
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal

I tasted the previous vintage of this wine a couple of years ago and I remember not being particularly impressed. I felt it was a nice wine, but not remarkable - although I can see from the taste note that this wasn't a typical heavy, oaky and buttery chardonnay.

This vintage seems to be a notch up - the wine style brings to mind the drier Chardonnays from Bourgogne, not Chablis but almost there. Green apples in the nose, some dried almonds and a slight vegetable background, which are later complemented by a mineral, chalky scent.

Very interesting in the palate, with a fresh, crispy acidity and a remarkable dryness, leaving a mineral, chalky feel in the mouth. This is a very elegant wine, with the fruit notes (mainly green apples) mixing with some citrus and the mentioned mineral notes to make a very composed wine that has a lot of structure without relying in the usual oak, buttery excesses.

As it breathes and is exposed to air, this starts to gain some of the heavier Chardonnay notes, boiled apples and pears coming to the front, along with some heavier oak notes - so it loses some of that mineral, chalkier feel and starts feeling like a more new world Chardonnay.


Saturday 26 January 2013

Dona Helena 2011

15 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country:Portugal



A light (both in structure and in alcohol), simple white from Adega de Pegões, near Setúbal, this shows an intense fruit-forward nose, sometime veering into candy territory but managing to keep interesting. There's also a marked citrus feel - notes of orange blossom at first and later even some lemon skin.


Very soft in the palate, it's a simple wine that has a nice, balanced presence. Lots of fruit here, the same candy notes also appearing - but everything backed and balanced by a fresh citrus acidity and a lemony note that helps it gain some interest. Good, simple finish. A good white for the summer or for before meals.


Thursday 24 January 2013

Herdade do Peso Reserva 2004

17/ 20
Producer: Herdade do Peso - Sogrape
Region:Alentejo
Country:Portugal


A very elegant wine in the nose, showing nice jammy fruit notes, a minty/eucalyptus feel in the background and some discreet evolution notes, the slighest note of leather creeping up here and there, contributing to a very intriguing bouquet.


Very alive in the palate, with the typical Alentejo jammier fruit notes very well integrated with the oak backed by a still very fresh acidity. Structured but not heavy, velvety, round tannins permeate the taste that finishes long, elegant and very balanced.


It will still live for a couple of years at least, but right now it's an extremely pleasurable, rewarding wine.


Saturday 19 January 2013

Fontanário de Pegões 1998

15.5 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal

Saw this at the winery shop in a recent visit and decided to take a chance with an older Setúbal wine, mainly made with Castelão - a recent good surprise with a 1999 red from Adega de Palmela gave strength to the notion that Castelão shows well with age, even in wines not made with that goal.

A lot of leather and old cupboards in the nose at first, it gains some strength and life as it breathes, revealing some dried leaves and, surprisingly, a good deal of jammy black fruits - the kind that I associate with Castelão from this region.

Slim and delicate in the palate, as expected for a 14-year old red, it nevertheless feels very alive, with the same notes of jammy black fruit appearing throughout the taste and making it very interesting.

Does not show its age at all and it still holds its own when matched with food.


Wednesday 16 January 2013

Sonnseit´n Roter Veltliner 2011

16 / 20
Producer: Soellner
Region: Wagram
Country: Austria


Roter veltliner is a grape type indigenous to Austria, introduced there during the era of the Roman Empire. Despite the name, it is not related to Gruner Veltliner, apparently.


Subtle, flowery aromas showing some sweet fruit in a backdrop of minerality - wet stones and rubber.


Very fresh in the palate, soft and well balanced between acidity and sweeter fruit, this is a really refreshing white that feels very light by its own but, when matched with food, reveals a very solid structure. Good, palate cleansing ending with a nice persistence.


Saturday 12 January 2013

Quinta do Escudial Garrafeira Vinhas Velhas 2006

17 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Escudial
Region:Dão
Country:Portugal

I was really surprised when I tasted this wine in a fair in Lisbon in November. A 6-year old unoaked red wine should taste a little tired, right? It should feel a bit old, maybe?

Well, this didn't. Starting by the color, a vibrant ruby and following up on the aromas, where notes of dried pine leaves mingled with some very alive red wild berries. Later on, the traditional flowery notes also appear in the form of buckroses.

In the palate, the first impact is of a fresh wine, showing some slight notes of leather at first and some alive, yet velvety tannins. It does not show much fruit at first, relying more on leather, a slight metalic feel, tobacco leaves, but as it opens, it reveals an outstanding red fruit and flowery profile that's truly amazing. Deep, long, very elegant and poised, it's a great wine by any standards. The fact that it has not staged in oak just pushes this into another level.

A great example of an old world wine.


Friday 11 January 2013

Adega de Pegões Colheita Seleccionada 2009

16 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal


Lots of oaky and caramel notes in the nicely tuned, inviting bouquet that also shows some jammy black fruits.


Feels very young in the palate, showing a lot of oak notes, the fruit notes still feeling somewhat "green" and needing some bottle time to mature. The tannins are also very present, although they do not hide any of the opulent, jammy fruit that's here. Good, average length finale.


For my taste, I'd wait another year or two before starting to drink it.


Tuesday 8 January 2013

Marquesa de Alorna 2009

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta da Alorna
Region: Tejo
Country: Portugal



Deeply golden in color, making me question if this had oxidized prematurely. Hapilly, the bouquet told me otherwise - although it showed an heavier white, with lots of buttery, vanilla notes, the white fruits (peaches) and boiled apples were also very present and showing very well. Maybe some flowers in the background.


Very structured and heavy in the palate at first, it changes halfway and reveals a drier approach, relying more on citrus than on vanilla and sweet white fruits. It shows a good balance between fruit and oak, being a very well tuned wintery white that finishes long and comforting as expected.


Sunday 6 January 2013

Quinta do Javali 10 Years Old Tawny

16 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Javali
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal


Opened this for the Christmas season - the goal was to have a good companion for the after dinner cigars so I thought this 10 year tawny would still have the strength to go down well with cigars and maybe pair with some leftover desserts.

Keeping on the dessert theme, english cake was the first thing that came to mind in the bouquet - a mixture of spices, crystalized fruits in a background of sweetness. When I first poured it, I felt the aguardente was too much to the foreground, hiding the more subtle aromas.

That same feeling marked the first taste, with the aguardente giving it a drier style, but at the same time taking the cherry notes to an almost kirsch level, which was not what I expected. Given time, this is corrected and the wine comes along as a very well balanced tawny, with a good acidity and a decent amount of dried sweet figs.


Friday 4 January 2013

Duorum Reserva Vinhas Velhas 2007

17 / 20
Producer: Duorum
Region: Douro
Country:Portugal


Pure Douro bouquet, a touch of silex, buckroses, a good deal of black fruits and a lot of oak and spices notes.

Great structure and still feeling quite fresh, the tannins are present, but tamed. At first, it reveals more notes of spices and oaks, but given time some very fresh red berries also appear in the palate. Deep, impositive finale.

Feels very round, surprisingly inviting since it is a Douro from one of its most potent vintages. Give it time, a couple of hours decanting will help it achieve its peak. I'm divided on if it is worth to cellar this anymore or if it is on its best drinking window.